The Christmas Tree



The first mention of the Christmas tree in America was 
in 1821, recorded in the diary of Matthew Zahm, 
of Lancaster, Pennsylvania.  By 1901, commercial 
Christmas tree farming had begun--growing trees, 
then cutting them down and selling them for Christmas. 

William Bradford, governor of the Pilgrims, tried to  stamp out all 
"pagan mockery" of the observance of  Christmas, and Oliver Cromwell 
preached against "the heathen traditions" of Christmas carols, decorated 
trees and any joyful expression that desecrated "that sacred event."  

Choosing and Caring For Your Tree

A cut  Christmas tree will last the entire holiday season without becoming excessively dry or dropping an excessive amount of needles provided it is fresh when purchased and it is given the proper care. Obviously, the most effective way to ensure a fresh tree is to visit a choose-and-cut plantation and cut the tree yourself. For many families this has become a holiday tradition, with the family devoting most or all of a day to choosing the "perfect" tree while enjoying the scenery and other activities provided by the grower.

For those selecting their Christmas tree at a retail lot, somewhat more care is needed to ensure that the tree selected is fresh. The most effective way for a buyer to evaluate the freshness of a cut Christmas tree is by how firmly the needles are attached to the branches. The easiest way to evaluate this is to lightly grasp a branch of the tree and gently pull the branch and needles through your hand. If the tree is fresh, very few needles will come off.

Another way to evaluate needle fastness is to shake or bounce the tree on the bottom of its trunk and observe needle drop. Again, if only a few green needles drop, the tree is probably fresh. When evaluating freshness, do not be concerned if excessive amounts of brown needles fall. Remember, these are the needles that the tree sheds each year. Just make sure the tree is shaken before it is taken into your home.

Other methods of assessing the freshness of a Christmas tree, including needle flexibility, tree color, aroma, and the relative dryness of the bottom of the trunk, are far more difficult to evaluate and can many times be very misleading

If the tree is to be stored more than a couple of days, it is advisable to place its trunk in water. If the tree has been cut within the last six to eight hours, it will not need to be recut; longer than that and it should be recut. Cut straight across the trunk (not at an angle) removing an inch or more from the bottom of the trunk. Be sure the container holds enough water and replenish it often enough that the water does not fall below the level of the trunk bottom. If it does, the trunk will begin to seal, and water absorption will be reduced or cease. When this occurs, a fresh cut must be made to remove the sap seal. Cut Christmas trees will absorb a surprising amount of water, particularly during the first week. A tree with a two-inch diameter trunk may initially use two quarts of water per day; one with a four-inch diameter trunk may use more than four quarts per day.

Setting It Up and Taking Care of It

The lower the temperature and the higher the humidity, the longer a cut Christmas tree will last. If possible, turn down the temperature or close (at least partially) the heat vents in the room where the tree is located. If you have a humidifier, set it as high as feasible without causing condensation throughout the house. Some individuals who do not have whole-house humidifiers place a small portable humidifier in the room with the tree. Do not locate the tree near sources of heat such as a fireplace, an open heat duct, or a radiator, or in front of a window that receives the direct rays of the sun.

Place the tree in a stand that is large enough and strong enough to hold a tree of its size. Be sure that the tree stand will hold an adequate amount of water (most would suggest a one-gallon minimum; more for large trees) and that it is replenished on a daily basis. Water is important because it prevents the needles from drying out, becoming brittle, and dropping off; the branches from drooping and then becoming brittle; and it keeps the tree fragrant. Again, remember that the tree will absorb a large quantity of water, particularly during the first week, and it is essential that the water level in the stand never go below the cut end of the trunk or a seal of dried sap will form (in as little as four to six hours), preventing the tree from absorbing water. If this happens, a fresh cut will need to be made to remove the sap seal, a cut that is often not feasible with a fully decorated tree.

Use only approved and carefully inspected electrical lights and extension cords when decorating a Christmas tree. Do not leave a lighted Christmas tree unattended.

Information from Ohio State University

Types of Christmas Trees Grown in The United States

Austrian Pine - dark green needles, 4 to 6 inches long; retains needles well.
Black Hills Spruce
- green to blue green needles; 1/3" to 1/4" long.
Blue Spruce
- dark green to powdery blue needles, 1 to 3 inches long; good form; will drop needles in a warm room; symmetrical; but is best among species for needle retention. State tree of Utah & Colorado. Can live in nature 600-800 years.
Scotch Pine
- most popular Christmas tree; stiff branches; dark green needles 1 - 3 inches long; holds needles for four weeks; keeps aroma throughout the season. Does not drop needles when dry. Introduced into United States by European settlers.
Balsam Fir
- short, flat, long lasting needles; forms soft feathery appearance; nice, dark green color with silvery cast and fragrant. Named for the balsam or resin found in blisters on bark. Resin is used to make microscope slides and was sold like chewing gum; used to treat wounds in Civil War.
Douglas Fir
- good fragrance; holds blue to dark green, 1 to 1-1/2 inch needles well; needles have a sweet scent when crushed. Named after David Douglas who studied the tree in the 1800's; can live for a thousand years.
Fraser Fir
- dark green needles; 1/2 to 1 inch long; good needle retention; nice scent. Named for a botanist, John Fraser, who explored the southern Appalachians in the late 1700's.
White Fir
or Concolor Fir - blue-green needles are 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches long; nice shape and good aroma; good needle retention. In nature can live to 350 years.
Red Pine
- green needles; 4" - 6" long.
Ponderosa Pine
- needles lighter colored than Austrian Pine; good needle retention.
White Pine
- blue green needles, 2 to 5 inches long; retains needles throughout the holiday season; very full appearance; little or no fragrance; less allergic reactions as compared to more fragrant trees. Largest pine in United States; state tree of Michigan & Maine.
White Spruce
- needles 1/2 to 3/4 inch long; green to bluish green needles; crushed needles have an unpleasant odor; good needle retention. State tree of South Dakota.
Noble Fir

One inch long, silver green needles. Has short stiff branches. Keeps well. Is used to make wreaths, door swags and garland.
Grand Fir

Shiny, dark green needles about 1 - 1 1/2 inches long; the needles when crushed, give off a citrusy smell.
Eastern Red Cedar

Leaves are a dark, shiny, green color.
Leyland Cypress

Foliage is dark green to gray color. One of the most sought after Christmas trees in the Southeastern United States.
Norway Spruce

Needles 1/2" - 1" long and dark green. Needle retention is poor. Very popular in Europe.


info derived from the University of Illinois

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